Showing posts with label DTF transfers. Show all posts
Showing posts with label DTF transfers. Show all posts

Wednesday, October 6, 2024

DTF-Direct To Film-Information

 Direct To Film

What is Direct To Film?  It's a newer type of heat transfer technology that allows home crafters to create full color heat transfers that don't require weeding, and can be heat applied to nearly any fabric and any color.  No special pre-treatment needed.  

For information on what it takes to get started, please refer to my previous post.

Today I'm going to share some tips and tricks on how to troubleshoot issues that are sure to come up and files you need to help get those inks flowing.  

Direct to film printers are just Epson 6 color or more printers that have been converted to be used as such.  Conversion consists of adding auto reset chip cartridges,(or chipless firmware) clearing the printhead of regular ink, installing cartridges with dtf ink, removing all but the two end sets of feeder wheels and having a level exit tray for the film to eject to.  Printers must have a compatible rip software, that tells the printer how to distribute the inks.  And although this all sounds pretty easy, there are sure to be a few hiccups along the way.  With the exception of the XP-15000, these printers are used and their conditions will vary.  I've have purchased all of my wide format printers from ebay.  Each printer was discribed as having a minor issue.  "Yellow won't print", "Doesn't feed paper", "Computer doesn't recognize printer" and so on.  Of these, only one needed a new printhead, and for the most part, these were easy to convert.  But you have to be willing to take a chance on the printer, and you can't be afraid to take it apart.  I have learned how to remove the printhead, and how to install an external waste bottle.  These are both things you need to be willing to do.  

In addition to the actual printer and supplies, there are a few utilities and print files you should have to troubleshoot and keep things printing smoothly.

Wic Reset Utility  This tool will help you identify errors, shows you the waste tank counter, does head cleanings, ink charges and nozzle check.  When the time comes to reset the waste tank, it can do that too for a small fee.  This is a must have.

Purge Files  CMYKW Cyan Magenta Yellow Black White

                     White Only

Purge files are good to help get ink flowing when you have just cleared a clog.  You want to avoid doing head cleanings, when possible.   Purge files are also a great way to keep the inks from drying out if you aren't printing everyday.  Keeping cleaning cartridges in when not in use is good, but purge files can help you spot a problem before it shuts you completely down.  

Maintenance is a must.  You must put in your cleaning cartridges and let them charge if your printer is going to be idle for even a few hours.  If you aren't printing everyday, then keep the cleaning carts in and have them do a charge everyday.  Then when you are ready to print, you won't have to fight clogs.  Shake your ink cartridges daily and keep them stored with the top down to keep ink from drying in the outlet.  If the ink carts aren't going to be used for a prolonged time, put tape over the outlet and store them in a zipper bag to prevent drying and settling of the inks.  Shake them often.  If you find that the inks look watery, then give them a good shake.  That's usually a sign that the inks are separating.  Then let them settle for a few minutes before putting them in your printer.

Film feeding problems are a common issue with a lot of these printers.  Make sure the paper feeding area is clean of dust, hair and debris.  Wipe the area down with a lint free cloth and some alcohol.  Be sure to clean the wheels.  Even with a clean paper feeding area, some printers will not take the film.  There are a few things you can try. 

1. Frosted or Kapton tape over the paper sensor.

2  Fold a sheet of paper in half, then put alcohol on half of that and feed it thru the printer.  The paper should not be wet, just damp.

3.  Sticker paper with 1/4 of the backing removed.  Feed it in with the sticky area at the top.  Make sure to feed it thru both front and back.  Do this 2-3 times both ways.

4.  Put several sheets of film in the feeding area.  You might try to place a stack of regular paper behind the film, or even some cardstock.

The film does have a special coating that allows the ink to adhere, and this will cause a buildup on the main feeder wheel.  Keep it clean with alcohol.

For information on how to convert a printer for dtf and maintain it, be sure to visit my YouTube Channel, Crafting On A Budget

Thursday, July 15, 2024

Let's Talk About Temp, Time and Pressure. How To Heat Apply DTF.

With every new thing, comes new challenges.  DTF is my new thing.  Finding information on how to heat apply was a toss-up for awhile.  Here is what I found online.  Your results may vary depending on your heat press.  

Do a pre-press on the garment you are apply the DTF transfer too.  Heat apply the transfer at 325° on medium to firm pressure for 10 seconds.  No cover sheet is required.


However, if you find that your transfer becomes dull after using this method, then try doing these things,

Lower the heat to 275° and press for 6 seconds on medium to firm pressure.  Allow the transfer to cool for a few seconds before trying to remove the carrier.  If the corner starts to lift, let it cool for a few more seconds.  

I was using too much heat and leaving the print under the heat for too long.  This is a by-product of sublimation, where the temps and times are very high and long.  Think of DTF being more like vinyl.  It is sometimes recommended to do a second press.  I have been doing the second press, but I do use a cover sheet whether it's teflon or butcher paper.  

Do you have a DTF tip to share?  Leave it in the comments!  Maybe you have a question.  Be sure to ask. 

Thursday, July 1, 2024

DTF vs. HTV Which is right for you?

If you are an avid crafter or a shirt decorator, you have probably stumbled across a post or video about DTF printing. 

What is DTF printing?  DTGPro explains it like this..."DTF is also referred to as Direct Transfer Film, and it works by printing transfers that are heat pressed to a variety of garments (and other substrates). There are many compatible fabrics including cotton, nylon, leather, polyester, and 50/50 blends. This is unlike DTG technology which only works on cotton fabrics. This therefore means that this printer works on a much wider substrate, making it the most versatile digital printer in the market. DTF printers work on both white and dark garments and can get the job done without requiring you to press on costly A+B paper, as is the case with the white toner printers.

Direct Transfer Film printers also combine reliability, unmatched quality and high productivity. They can handle large production volumes, which is essential in this fast-growing industry. Unlike DTG technology, DTF printers are preferred by most people because they are affordable and require no pre-treatment. For quality results, you will need DTF powder and DTF sheets to print transfer film, and of course, DTF Ink.

Another advantage of DTF printing over traditional printing is that it is highly sustainable. There is no question that the fashion industry is increasingly focusing on sustainability."

But...Is DTF right for you?  Let's take a look at what it takes to get into DTF printing.
Supplies
  • Printer that has been or can be converted for DTF printing.  (list of printers)
  • Rip software for printing.  (for more info, google rip software)
  • DTF Ink
  • Refillable ink cartridges and syringes
  • PET film to print on
  • Adhesive powder 
  • Heat source to cure adhesive powder
  • Heatpress to press finished transfer onto garment.
To help you understand the cost, I'm going to share what I paid, which is the very low end of the cost to start DTF printing.
*Printer...I purchased an Epson Artisan 1430 on ebay for $193.50 with shipping.
*RIP software....I purchased AcroRIP 9.  It's an older version, but newer printers will need the newer version of AcroRIP 10.  I paid $99.  You can purchase it for $85 from McLaud Technology. (And the computer to load the software onto, which I am assuming you already have)
*DTF inks, film and powder....I purchased the starter bundle from DTFsuperstore for $225 with shipping.
*Refillable cartridges for the DTF ink...I purchased 2 sets of 6 from ebay for $47.90.  I also bought 6 syringes with long needles from Amazon for $6.99
*Heat source for curing...I tried the hover method on my heatpress, but it didn't work for me.  My heatpress is cheap and has cold spots.  I spent $21.25 at Walmart.com for a Wagner Furno 300 Heat Tool.  It has worked very nicely.
*Heatpress...I have had my heatpress for several years.  I bought it on ebay for about $180 I think.  New ones are selling for around that price now.  The smallest you really want to go is 15x15.
So...for the grand total of $773.64($593.64 if you already have a heatpress), I have a printer and the needed software and supplies to print full color DTF transfers.  No matter the size, the color or the quanity, I have what I need.  No weeding and no additional inventory. However, keep in mind, I went the cheapest route I could.  Your costs may be higher based on availablity of products due to increasing demand.
What are the drawbacks?   Well, the Artisan 1430 is very big.  Any printer you find that will print large format is going to be big.  You are taking a chance when you convert that it's not going to work.  My printer is older and used.  Who knows how long it will last.  Once you introduce non-oem ink into the printer, you void the warranty.  There are modification that need to be made to the printer to avoid "pizza cutter" lines through your prints.  Once you convert to DTF, there may be no going back to regular printing.
What are the positives?  Well, as I mentioned above, no additional inventory, like heat transfer vinyl.  There is no substate limitation.  What does that mean?  You can press it on practically any material.  Cotton?  Yes.  Canvas?  Yes.  Polyester?  Yes.  Blends?  Yes.  Did I mention no weeding?!?!  Which allows for some very small designs!  Check out these shoes I did!
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The emblem on the back of the shoe is 1.5" tall and very detailed.  Imagine trying to layer that?  I know it can be done, but the time it takes to weed and layer has just been cut down by at least 75%.  
Finally, durability.  I have done a few practice shirts, that I continue to toss into the washer and dryer with each new load.  After at least 10 full cycles, I have not seen any deterioration of the transfers so far.  I have not been turning the shirts inside out as recommended and I am putting them in the dryer on low heat, which is my normal.  Hang drying is suggested.

So, what is the conclusion?  Well, you'll have to decide for yourself if DTF is the future for you.  Maybe you would like to try it out before you go all in!  If that's the case, contact me for a great deal on a DTF transfer to try!  





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